To make the raita, fry the lime wedges in hot oil until the sides are blackened and sticky, then squeeze their juice into the yogurt. Mix in the salt and sweetener, garnish with nigella seeds, and chill until needed.

Boil the peeled potatoes until completely tender, then drain and mash them thoroughly in a large bowl. While they cook, crush the cumin seeds and grind the chiles and ginger into a fine paste using a mortar and pestle.

Briefly dunk the spinach in boiling water for one minute, refresh in cold water, and squeeze out as much moisture as possible before chopping finely. Add the spinach, peas, spice paste, chickpea flour, and remaining seasonings to the mashed potatoes and knead with your hands until well combined.

Shape the mixture into golf-ball-sized rounds and flatten into thick discs. Fry the kebabs in batches with a little oil over medium heat for about 2.5 minutes per side until they are crisp and golden-brown.