Place the dried mushrooms in a bowl with boiling water and soak until rehydrated, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the mushrooms, squeezing out excess liquid, and slice into half-inch thick pieces; ensure you reserve all the mushroom soaking water for the sauce.

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat, then lower to medium-high and add the noodles. Cook for 2 minutes less than the package instructions so they remain very chewy, then drain well. They need to be undercooked as they will finish braising in the sauce later.

Heat a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat and add the oil. Sauté the onion and garlic until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add the sliced mushrooms and cabbage. Leave them untouched for 2 minutes to develop a light brown sear, then toss and let the other side brown for another 2 minutes.

Increase the heat to high and pour in the Shaoxing wine. Stir constantly until the wine has evaporated.

Pour in the reserved mushroom water, dark soy sauce, half of the regular soy sauce, sugar, and white pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium-high heat.

Add the par-cooked noodles to the boiling sauce and simmer for 2 minutes to let them absorb the flavors.

Whisk the cornstarch and room-temperature water in a small bowl to create a slurry. Pour this into the noodles while stirring continuously; the sauce should thicken and coat the noodles completely.

Turn off the heat and taste for seasoning, adding the remaining soy sauce if a saltier finish is desired. Toss in the chopped chives and serve immediately while hot.