Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers but does not smoke. Add the cauliflower and onion and cook undisturbed until the cauliflower starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir and continue to cook until the vegetables are softened and the cauliflower is spotty brown, another 5 minutes.

Stir in the coriander, cumin, turmeric, and Kashmiri chili powder. Cook until the spices are fragrant and have darkened slightly, about 1 to 2 minutes—keep them moving so they don't scorch.

Pour in the water and immediately cover the skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce the heat to medium-low and steam until the cauliflower is tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Remove the lid and increase the heat to medium-high for about 1 minute to evaporate any remaining liquid. Off the heat, stir in the yogurt, lime juice, and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper and serve warm while the florets are still tender.