Separately wash your stems and leaves, keeping them apart. Trim the hollow stems into 3-inch pieces and the leafy tops slightly longer; leave them a bit wet to help prevent the garlic from scorching.

Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and stir-fry the garlic and chile until the garlic just starts to turn golden, about 15 seconds. Note: For this vegetarian version, ensure the shrimp paste mentioned in the original text is omitted.

Toss in the spinach stems first, lower the heat slightly, and cook for 1 minute until they begin to soften. Add the leaves and cover the pan for a minute or two to encourage wilting.

Remove the lid and stir-fry for one last minute until the leaves are tender but the stems still have a pleasant crunch. Season with a pinch of salt to taste.